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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning names. Yet, nestled high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.